It's not as confusing as your making it. Just pick a good brand name reelseat that will fit the butt diameter of your blank and the reelseat is done. I myself used an all metal Struble U-22, but there is a huge variety of reelseats for many companies that will work as well.
I have one of the older Perigees so I'm not sure if the color is the same, mine is a lighter shade of green with tiny metallic flakes in the finish. I used Sulky metallic green embroidery thread on all my fly and Perigee gear rods I built with small gold trim bands. The color was identical to the blank, and made the wraps appear to be part of the rod.
I used this guide sizing and spacing, but I can't guarantee it's the best for your rod. I don't know what line and knots/loops you have to pass. Many will say the guides are too small, but if you look at a high end performance rods, the same sizes are used and I don't hear to many complaining about them. My philosophy is, I can either use the blank's performance to throw the line or to just wave heavy guides in the air, there is only so much power there so you decide how your want to use it. If you want to use all ceramic guides, use 7 SF fly, 10 SF fly, 12 and 16s. Use 1 each at the butt than 7's on out. 6's may also work, you'd have to test pass your line/knots/loops to be sure. Fuji concepts are a bit larger ID that many other guides as the ceramic rings are a bit thinner. Snake brand guides are my favorite DF snakes, Hopkins and Holloway are my favorite SFs and DF strippers, Fuji in ceramics.
Spacing was 4 1/4, 9 3/16, 15 1/4, 21 1/2, 29 3/16, 36 9/16, 44 3/8, 54, 64 1/2, 76 1/8, again this is just a start, I have no way of looking at the guide distribution under load or test casting your rod before you wrap it up.
I used a Struble Full wells, as I like the larger diameter. It's far easier to slim or shape a large grip to your needs than to go the other way. The fighting butt came on the reelseat I used.