I would recomend the same spacing but would probably cut down a size or two if you are going with wire guides.

I just built a GSB120 1L using REC single foot guides. I based that spacing on using a VS200. I used the new FUJI concept guide spacing calculations to space the guides. This method requires that you measure the actual diameter of the spool lip on the reel you intend to use with the rod. Take that actual measurement and multiply it by 27. This is the distance from the face of the spool to the first "choke" guide. With the reel mounted on the rod (in the reel seat) take the distance you calculated (27xthe spool lip diameter) and place the firts "choke" guide at that distance from the spool. I used the REC double foot casting guides -size 10- for the choke guide. I also used the same guide for the remainder of the guides between the "choke" guide and the tip top. The distance between the first "choke" guide and the top was filled in with size 10 REC double foot casting guides spaced equally but no more than six (6) inches apart. To do this take the remaing distance from the first choke guide to the tip top ring and divide by six. The quotient usually is not a whole number; so you will have to round-up this quotient to a whole number- this whole number will be the number of running guides you will place between the first "choke" guide and the tip top. Just space this number of guides equally (same distance from guide ring to guide ring.
To place the stripper and any other necessary guides you will have to mount the reel in the reel seat on the rod. Pull line from the spool, tie it to the tip top ring and using a rubber band make sure the line is place at the top of the spool lip (the maximum distance from the reel seat to the spool lip). Looking at the rod (with the rod turned upside down so that the reel is on the top of the rod, instead of hanging underneath as usual). The line will run from the spool lip down to the first choke guide and then through the running guides tp the tip top. It looks all wrong, but don't get scared.
Now take your REC #40 single foot guide and place it about 30inches from the spool face but adjust this distance so you don't choke the line down too much at this point. Tape the guide in place, run the line through it, and go on to the next guide.
I ended up with a REC #25 and then an REC #16; I placed these at points to intersect the line as it continues down towards the first choke guide.
Last step is to tape all the guides on and make some practice casts.
The only drawback to using these guides is you cannot use a shock leader that is spliced to your main and try to cast it thru these "wire" type of guides. The not will bang on the guides as it attempts to shoot through the guides. That is the only drawback. The rod will still cast but you won't get maximum distance unless you eliminate any "splicing" type knots.
The friend I built this for uses either 30# PowerPro or 17# Gamma Copolymer (the mono is used for plugging and the PowerPro is used for live eels). The rod looks strange but casts great and you get the full benefit of the rod arc because of the number of "runnung" guides between the "choke" guide and the tip top.
I did the calculations for you, here are your starting points FROM THE TIP TOP RING; place four #10 REC dbl foot guides six inches apart. Then place a REC#16 singl foot guide ten inches away from the last #10 dbl foot guide. The next guide is a single foot REC #25 that will be fourteen and a quarter inches from the #16. The next guide will be a REC#40 single foot guide that will be seventeen and one eighth inches from the #25. I got this spacing from throwing a 704Z on a GSB120 1L (the reel seat was spaced 17.5" from the bottom of the rod) and spacing the guides on the blank based on the calculations. Try this as your starting point. Don't forget, no splices and make practice casts to optimize distance by making slight adjustments in the spacing if necessary.
Good Luck.

cool,Thank you